Marino, fascinating and evocative like an ancient painting

Marino, affascinante e suggestiva come un quadro antico

The territory of the municipality of Marino is located south of Rome, on the Alban Hills in the Castelli Romani area, squeezed between Rocca di Papa, Castel Gandolfo and Grottaferrata. By virtue of its hilly position, it enjoys a healthy climate and has always been a holiday resort, but it is precisely its characteristics that have given rise to wine-growing traditions that have made famous the homonymous white wine with controlled denomination of origin and the Sagra dell'Uva (Grape Festival), the oldest event of its kind in Italy, founded in 1924 by the poet and playwright Ercole Pellini, known as Leone Ciprelli . Marino was the set for numerous films by Federico Fellini and is understandable precisely because of its typicality, so much so that it looks like a picture, perched and fascinating, rich in history and art, traditions and folklore that have never been lost thanks to the commitment of the population.

Telling us the story of Marino is Alessandro Bedetti, Director of the Civic Museum, who explains "The city of Marino owes its name to the Castrimoenium, which was fortified by Silla and raised to Municipium. During the Middle Ages it assumed an important strategic position that led it to be controlled by various feudal lords. After the Frangipane, in 1266 the feud passed to the Orsini family and in 1419 the village came to the Colonna family, who kept possession of it until the 19th century, transforming it from a fortified village to a place of rest and leisure for the family.
With the opening of the Via Appia nuova - continued by the Director - due to Pope Pius VI, Marino lost its role and became a quiet town in the Roman Campagna, elevated to a city in 1835 by Gregory XVI. Important vestiges of the past are still visible in the historic centre, the most important of which is a sanctuary of the Indo-European god MITHRA, carved inside a cistern of a Roman villa. On the back wall was a polychrome fresco depicting the god in the act of cutting the throat of a white bull surrounded by eight scenes.
In the upper part of the town where the fortress once stood and one of the town gates opened, stands the former Church of St Lucia, which now houses the Civic Museum.
Founded at the beginning of the 12th century on a Roman cistern, it owes its current Gothic appearance to a series of pointed arches resulting from the 15th century renovation; its façade incorporates a tower house dating back to the 10th century, while inside one can still see a mullioned window, a rose window and a fresco depicting St. Onofrio dating back to the 14th century. In the 17th century, the church was deconsecrated and its role was taken over by the Collegiate Basilica of St Barnabas the Apostle erected by Cardinal Girolamo Colonna. Inside are works by Maratta, Algardi, Ferrata and Ghezzi, while the altarpiece depicting the martyrdom of the saint is by Bartolomeo Gennari, a disciple of Guercino. Another complex built by the Colonna family is the Monastery of the Santissimo Rosario with a church designed by Giuseppe Sardi, featuring a richly stuccoed interior and a tabernacle attributed to the school of Mino da Fiesole. Not far away is the church of S. Maria delle Grazie, built around the 15th century," concludes Alessandro Bedetti. "There is a fresco by Benozzo Gozzoli and a S. Rocco attributed to Domenichino."

Ancient' and underground Marino

The city of Marino rests on a vast network of caves, some communicating with each other, that are about 12 metres below the street surface and extend for tens of kilometres underground in the historic centre. Their history is ancient; they were dug into the volcanic tuff to obtain building material as early as the medieval period. Excavations then continued into Roman times. Recent renovation work now makes it possible to fully enjoy this underground heritage that bears witness to the historical and anthropological peculiarities of the city. In the municipality of Marino, at Santa Maria delle Mole, a piece of the ancient Appian Way is visible.

The Wine Cart

Before the 1950s with the arrival of more modern means of transport, very special carts, called wine carts, were used to take wine to markets where the 'nectar of the gods' was sold. Depending on the place of origin, the cart was decorated according to the tastes and customs of the municipality to which it belonged. The cart driver (the one who drives the cart, pulled by a horse) on this vehicle would load eight 60-litre barrels on the platform, plus one 5-litre barrel, next to the man's seat. At the 'Museo del Carretto a Vino' in Marino, run by the local Pro Loco, it is possible to admire one in perfect condition, dating back to the early 20th century.

Unique smells and flavours: the Must Donut

Many have tried to imitate it, and indeed several municipalities in the Castelli Romani bake their own doughnuts, but Marino's is unique, recognised as a heritage of the local community and unrepeatable. The aroma is intoxicating. The history of the Ciambella al Mosto di Marino dates back to the 14th century, when the city's castle was besieged by Cola di Rienzo. The citizens of Marino, in order to make the tribune desist from the enterprise, sent a mule with two bigonce full of doughnuts. Do not ask what the recipe is, because no one is willing to reveal it: if you want to eat it, go to Marino and, just after the grape harvest, you will be able to taste its extreme goodness.

Of possible interest...

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